Paris

Finally, I was off to the city of lights! I had researched why the French capital had that nomenclature. There are two main reasons: it was an early adopter of street lighting, beginning in the 1660s, and, equally important, it was the epicentre of the Age of Enlightenment, a significant intellectual movement of its time, probably signalling the end of the Dark Ages.

Terry Buggy was an Australian who taught at Cardinal Newman High School with me, while John Jones was his friend who taught at a different school. Elana was John's girlfriend and was from Czechoslovakia. I received a note from Terry saying he, John and Elana would meet me at my hotel at 6 PM the next day. Bought four tickets for the Follies Bergère for that night. It remains a symbol of Parisian nightlife and entertainment, akin to the Moulin Rouge, yet with its own distinct history. I wanted to see one of its shows and thought the others would also.

Having arrived at Le Bourget Airport at midday, I took a taxi ride to the city, which left me unimpressed until I reached the outskirts of Paris. However, it did provide me with an opportunity to discuss a variety of issues with the taxi driver. He seemed impressed and pleased to learn that I was a teacher, and, among other aspects of my job, I taught French to English-speaking students.

I had made a reservation at the Hotel de Beauharnois, which is a five-minute walk from Place de L'Opéra. This was important because I could pick up my mail at the American Express office nearby. Here, I could retrieve the mail addressed to "Gerald Bissett, American Express, Paris." The service was available in all major European cities. Amazing! After picking up letters from my mother and Kathy, I walked to Place Pigalle and saw the bright lights of that district. I was really looking forward to the next day, when I would finally start to see Paris.

I had an "interesting" experience the next morning. It was about 8 AM and I was still in bed, although I was waking up. All of a sudden, the door to my room opened, and a young woman, probably around 20, came in, brought my breakfast, and set it on the table. I could easily have been walking around after taking a shower with very little, if anything, on. I reminded myself that I was in France where there is greater comfort in male-female relationships. That reality would come to the fore on many occasions over the next couple of months. In fact, my first reaction to French laissez-faire would prove to be very similar to that found in many other countries on this continent.

By late morning, I was taking a 'cityrama' tour of Paris. This lasted three hours and was jam-packed with information about every conceivable aspect of Parisian life. I was not surprised to discover that Paris was everything I had imagined it would be. In the late afternoon, I decided to investigate a very different side of the city. For some reason, I had wanted to visit the sewers of Paris. Having read about it and understanding to some extent its history. I thought this would be both fascinating and educational.

A Visit to Les Invalides was fascinating. It was founded by King Louis XIV and initially meant as a hospital and retirement home for wounded, disabled, and aging soldiers. Hence the name “Invalides” (invalids = injured veterans). Initially, thousands of former soldiers lived there, receiving medical care, housing, food, and a military-style community. The main attraction for me was Napoleon's tomb. It is obviously strategically placed - directly under the golden dome. I found myself on a balcony looking straight down onto the tomb. I was told that this was very intentional and very imperial. Behind me, on the wall, were numerous plaques commemorating Napoleon's various military adventures. I kept thinking about all the battles Napoleon had lost, and how he became known as a great leader. My goodness, have the French never heard of the battles of Trafalgar, Moscow, Ottoman City, Spain/Portugal (the Peninsula War), Leipzig (Battle of Nations) and, of course, Waterloo?

Interestingly, the guide spoke only French. That surprised me since this was tourist season and Paris has a multitude of tourists, especially in the summer. I would have thought that the tour company would have ensured that the guide was multilingual, but that wasn't the case. Therefore, since all of the other individuals on the bus were from English-speaking countries (e.g., New Zealand, Australia, North America, and the UK), I became the tour guide/translator.

This really is an underground city. Dating back to the 14th century, it has been extended and improved on numerous occasions by various individuals, including Louis XIV, Napoleon III, and, more recently, Jacques Chirac. Victor Hugo described it as "Paris has another Paris under herself; a Paris of sewers, which has its streets, its crossings, its squares, its blind alleys, its arteries, and its circulation, which is slime, minus the human form."

Most people wonder if it will smell bad when they visit the sewers. Actually, when you visit the Paris sewers (Les Égouts de Paris), there is definitely a noticeable smell, since it’s a functioning sewer system. Visitors often describe it as a mix of damp earth, stagnant water, and sewage odours. That said, the smell is usually not overwhelming — more musty than unbearable. I was able to adjust after a few minutes,

In the late evening, I went on another tour, this time, taking in the nightlife. During my visit to the famous Moulin Rouge, I had the opportunity to see a spectacular show. Our tour then went to La Boule Blanche – a typical French nightclub in the Montparnasse district. Finally, we visited a restaurant in Les Halles where I enjoyed wine and onion soup as dawn was breaking. What a night!

Somehow, I managed to get up around 9 o'clock, but felt quite tired after yesterday's hectic day. Nevertheless, I took an all-day tour of the Château de Malmaison and Versailles. The former is a historic estate located just west of Paris. It’s most famous as the residence of Joséphine de Beauharnais, the first wife of Napoleon Bonaparte, and later as one of Napoleon’s homes after their divorce. After Josephine and Napoleon divorced in 1809 (because she could not give him an heir), she kept Malmaison and lived there until her death in 1814. Today, the Château is a museum dedicated to Napoleon and Joséphine, displaying paintings, furniture, and personal items.

Incredibly, I was disappointed by the Palace of Versailles. It was designed to impress and control. I don't know much about the controlling part, though I understand the nobles were obliged by Louis 14th to spend part of their time there to ensure their loyalty. It was a symbol of absolute monarchy. However, I found it gaudy and in bad taste. The Hall of Mirrors is a dazzling gallery lined with mirrors and chandeliers, used for ceremonies and receptions. Yuk! Nevertheless, I was glad I went, since it's a World Heritage site and has more to offer than I could appreciate that day. Perhaps I was just tired from the previous day's hecticness and early morning awakening - again, courtesy of that young lady who brought me breakfast.

I took in a "Paris Illuminations" tour that night and was dazzled by the visual displays throughout the city. Another visit to the American Express office to get my mail, and I received a note from Kathy that she would meet me in Zürich on August 8. I was really elated by that information and answered that I would be at the airport to meet her. She informed me that she was taking an Air Canada flight from Montreal to Paris, then transferring to a new one for Zürich. I told her in my reply that if, for some reason, we missed each other at the airport, we should meet at the American Express office at noon the following day.

Before John, Terry and Elena arrived, I decided to tour the Louvre. Frankly, I was left depressed because I realized I would need a month to really appreciate this museum. Yep, the Mona Lisa was still smiling! A symbol of Renaissance art, mystery, and artistic mastery, it has inspired countless references in literature, music, and pop culture. I just stood looking at it and found myself mesmerized by what I was seeing - its enigmatic smile made me attempt to decipher what she was thinking, as, I'm sure, countless others have over the centuries. An elderly gentleman standing next to me said that if you focus directly on her mouth, the smile can seem faint or almost gone. However, if you look at her eyes or take a slight step back, the smile appears fuller and more radiant. I tried it and he seemed to be correct. Wow!

The Aussies and Elana arrived as scheduled, and I experienced another example of the Parisian/French approach to life. I had discovered that it was cheaper to keep my single room and rent a second one for three people than to transfer my single to a double and rent a double room for John and Elana. The idea was for the three of them to go to the second room, and later, Terry would join me. Therefore, the hotel owner, a woman in her 50s, saw the three of them go upstairs to the second room. She was surprised to see 2 males and 1 female go to their room together. She shrugged her shoulders and exclaimed, "c'est la vie"! Can you believe that reaction?

That night we went to the Folies Bergère, and I believe everybody enjoyed it. After the show, we went to a French restaurant where we ate and drank three bottles of wine. I was very dizzy as I walked back to the hotel, but I felt I had had a really fun evening.

For the final day in Paris, I decided to take a boat trip along the Seine River. It was interesting to see Paris from a different perspective. I certainly enjoyed viewing the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe along the way. Upon disembarking, I headed towards the Eiffel Tower and thought I would freeze as I ascended it. But, I must admit, the view of this wonderful city from it is stupendous!

Then we were off to Chartres by train. I had been curious about its famous cathedral with the uneven spires, and Terry was equally intrigued. Its Notre Dame Cathedral (yep, same name as in Paris!) is world-renowned. It has been a pilgrimage site for over 1,000 years, and many still walk the labyrinth as a spiritual exercise today. We had only a couple of hours here, and, again, I wasn't giving this fantastic site enough attention.

I was surprised the next morning to wake up and not feel hungover. In fact, I was not even tired. I then took a tour of Fontainebleau. I was actually disappointed, though, not as much as I was in Versailles. I found it was more interesting than the latter. I had done some research about this location, and according to the official chateau history, "Fontainebleau" took its name in the 16th century from the "Fontaine Belle-Eau", a natural freshwater spring located in the English garden, not far from the chateau. There has been a connection between the town of Fontainebleau and the French monarchy for centuries. Because it was a residence for numerous French kings, it is now designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. I enjoyed walking the grounds to some extent, but I had the same feeling I had in the Louvre. It is so large that one needs a significant amount of time to appreciate it fully.

Afterwards, we visited an artist village called Barbizon. Best known for its role in Art history, it is now referred to as the village of painters. I was able to explore old studios, the museums (such as the Musée de l’école de Barbizon), and some of its galleries. I even walked along some of the forest paths around the village, which many painters over the centuries have depicted. I managed to find an etching for mom!. We still have it in our home.